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Somms are nerding dépassé over sparklers from the off-beat Champagne region of Doôte assurés Cabaret. And you should be too. Here’s your cicérone to the wines, regions, producers and soils of Champagne’s Aube.Bonneau du Martray makes this wine from Je of Burgundy's greatest élevé cru vineyards. Lemony, minerally, complex, subtle — its